Mexico Day 6

Day 6 Car Wash return and The Temple of Doom  

I drove to Zero Gravity and was very pleased to be greeted by Chris who asked whether I had been avoiding him all week. He had just finished a Cave 1 course and was catching up in the office. Fred turned up after wrestling with a flat battery and we set off to Car Wash.

There were two other teams there and we agreed to run the reel to the right of the cave which was a bit of a pain as I am trying to learn the central route – but we have to cope with what we have. I found my way past the sign but the route over the rocks to the line (rather than down to the right) left me a bit baffled and I needed a bit of guidance from Fred. Made it with at least 100 foot of line on the reel though so success

We set off, past Luke’s Hope cenote and down where the passage narrows down and starts to wind and get more decorative. I have always liked Car Wash and this was as far as I had ever been before. This dive was intended to be short but we had gas to spare so went just past the jump to the Room of Tears before turning back.

We recalculated gas at the 12 metre section of the cavern rather than get out to open water which would add further to the saw tooth profile of the dive and then set off in again for a full dive.

I love this cave. It is an old cave and the formations are yellow in form and rounded where they have been softened by thousands of years of water passing by. The tunnel reminded me of Little River in Florida in places – although the number of decorations reminded you that it was Mexico after all. One of the other teams had jumped off the mailine to the Room of Tears so I placed a non directional marker to indicate the way we had come and kept going.

The passage got progressively tighter and changed depth a lot making an interesting profile until it suddenly changed and widened into a beautiful room – Andrianna’s Room – which is full of thousands of delicate formations almost Grand Cenote like in appearance. Unfortunately, whilst the passage to Angelita’s room is tight – beyond it is tighter still and it was time to head for home.

A turtle on deco added to the dive – once I realised that it wasn’t a crocodile J

I had a small inkling that something challenging may be ahead when Fred said kit up your next set of tanks here and stay in your drysuit as there won’t be anywhere to get ready at the next site. He then asked how I felt about giant strides….and whether I had been to Landenouse in France.

Uh oh.

Welcome to the Temnple of Doom. A tiny cenote in the jungle where one large and two small openings have fallen in to reveal the cave below. The Mexican name for the cenote means Skull but it has become known as the Temple of Doom.

“When you get to the top you have to jump” said Fred. Or I’ll throw you in”

OK – so that’s peer pressure then.

I kitted up and hiked up to the cenote ahead of Fred, it was about 100 yards but the rocks were no where near as bad as No Hoch so it was relatively easy going. I got there and there were two lads sitting sunning themselves by the edge – “wow I bet that’s heavy” they said. “Sure is” I replied.

“Bloody hell – it’s a girl”.

First time someone has noticed that for a while I eyed the cenote and found what I thought was the lowest point of the rim to jump in from and got ready – to have Fred arrive and say no – you want to be over here.

OK – look forward and jump.

This is taking it’s time…

Am I going to land soon…

This is going to hurt….

Arrrgggghhhhhhhhhhhhh ahhhhhhhhhhhh J

That wasn’t that bad. I’m not even going to think about getting out now though.

We set off past the cavern line to the Madonna Passage. It is a truly beautiful cave well below the halocline so white with a blue tint wherever the light catches it. I saw a package which had carbon tablets in it with an email address for those who would like further information about a project based at Bristol university. We turned left at the first T and proceeded through the cave past more limestone so blue white that washing powder adverts would weep. A second T meant that the dive was called at a beautiful bright white stalactite which hung over the cave like a massive icicle.

We headed back to the Cavern line where we recalculated gas and then moved the reel to the second line in the cave, the Canyons. More food for the senses, here there was a narrow passage which was about the size of the gallery in Ginnie but which had a halocline about three meters above the line which shone blue and white. We turned right at the first T on to a white survey line which took us through older parts of the cave where formations and the passages were rounded and delicate straws were hidden off to the sides – each would have been fun to stop and look at for ages but we pressed on.

Suddenly we were at the icicle in ceiling again – the one we had seen at the end of the first dive and the second T of this dive was exactly where we had ended the first. Cave 1 limits preclude circuits and there would be no reel waiting for us at the exit so we had no option but to retrace our steps. No hardship really with all that to look at on the way out.

The way out.

Hmmmmm…..

Well there is a ladder – of sorts. A vertical metal one which has nothing at the top to grab hold of apart from a very shaky looking tree stump. The only good thing about getting out is that you know that you would have enough time to reflect on your error before hitting the water.

Like most things – it wasn’t as bad as it appeared. The heat and the mosquitoes just added to the pleasure I assure you. Cave diving – it’s a damn good job that the caves are worth the hassle of getting got them. But they are – every damn bit of it.

I was sad to say goodbye to Mexico again. I made arrangements to come back next autumn before I left – can’t imagine not having a date in the diary to look forward to really, and I hope to see Fred and Chris before that too. If you are thinking about going – stop thinking and do it.

Oh yes – I did one ocean dive whilst I was here. Saw some fish.

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Mexico Day 5

Day 5 - Mayan Blue.

Another morning at the beach (although this time in the rain) left me heading to join Steve and Fred at Mayan Blue. I’d heard about this cave from Bob and was keen to see it.

We arrived at the cenote amid a cloud of mosquitoes who all appeared set on having European for lunch L The water looked very green and when we jumped in I found it was warm and full of fish – the little tetras which are common here.

We did our checks and when I put my mask on to check Fred for bubbles I looked down into a shoal of fish which must have numbered several hundred. I’m really not keen on these fish – they are related to pirhana and have very visible teeth – especially when up close like this. I ask Fred and Steve to hurry up and get on with the dive so I can get away from them which amuses Fred greatly. “OK – Clare is scared of some two inch long fish so she is going cave diving instead”

We head in to A tunnel which after yesterday’s Grecian cathedral appears like a gothic nightmare. Green water with white walls and black formations which snake down the sides of the tunnel which widens out into huge rooms. Visibility is quite poor for Mexico and we go in and out of a false halocline which makes the surroundings quite surreal and the cave hard to read. I consider thumbing the dive as I find the place very eerie and uncomfortable but tell myself to pull it together and settle down.

When we surface I ask Fred why it is called Mayan Blue as it is Mayan green, dank and dirty as far as I can see. He tells me that I’ll see from the next dive.

Dive two is B tunnel and I lead us in – or at least try to. Fred has indicated where the opening is and told me it is quite tight – but I drop down over the large rock pile that he pointed to and can’t see any opening. I persevere and eventually spot a gap between two large rocks which appears to continue down – I stick my head in and sure enough there is space behind it.

I tie off on branches in open water and again just inside the cave and then set off for the main line which is reasonably easy to find. The cave goes deep quite quickly and we go below the halocline proper into salt water.

The salt water is perfectly clear and has bleached the white limestone brilliant white. The water around our torches glows blue in colour – all around – and the halocline is visible just above us for much of the dive as a white shimmering line edged with blue. Formations here are fewer in number but white and the cave broadens out to large rooms again – each shaped very dramatically by the salt water layer. We surface and the mosquitoes greet us like a long lost lunch.

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Mexico Day 4

Day 4 No Hoch na Chich 

I spend the morning on the beach to recharge my batteries – I’ll need them as this afternoon it’s time to go back to No Hoch J

No Hoch na Chich – this is truly the most beautiful place on earth and my first dive here earlier this year made every training dive I had ever done, every moment I had ever spent in the water, every pound I have spent on kit, worth it a thousand times over. No photograph can do this place justice, no description can ever replace going there. The one phrase I hear from divers who get to go is that it is a privilege to see something so beautiful and rare.

Today I get to pay the cave a tiny, tiny bit back for the pleasure it gives me. The Mexican Cave Diving safety committee which Danny from DIR Mexico is on, has decided that the gold line in the cave has to be replaced as it is encouraging divers to stray too far from the line thus damaging a greater section of cave. Fred has brought three reels, one full of new white line to put in the cave and two empty, to receive the gold line we take out. The work has already been started and for the first 1500 feet we just get to dive and marvel once again that nature can create something like this cave.

Eventually we get to the gold line and Fred starts to lay white line below the gold, matching it wrap for wrap. My job is to remove any line marker from the mainline and place it in an identical way on the new line below. We move along until gas limits are reached and it is time to return. It takes a few minutes to secure the new line and then Fred cuts the gold line which we have replaced – ready to connect it to the new line.

It is a funny feeling seeing a mainline cut in a cave. It sure springs back a long way.

Fred then takes out an empty reel and starts to wind in the gold line that is no longer needed. It has been a reasonably successful exercise – we fill a large reel with what we take out and hopefully it will help protect this delicate and rare environment for a bit longer.

We return to the start of the mainline and then recalculate gas underwater for another dive. I head off in the lead on this one – down Parker’s line then turn on to Charlie’s line. From formations as tall as a house to pencil thin ‘straws’ which line up thousand upon thousand until there is no room for any more. On and on this goes, winding up and down, the passage goes through ever changing scenery which I just cannot find the words to describe. 

We hit the second T which is the limit of my training so I turn the dive and we head out. Funny how no matter how hard you try to take it all in on the way in it always feels like you missed it all on the way out – the cave is different and the scenery is just as mind blowing again. We get back to the reel and look towards the cenote but there is nothing to see – it is dark outside as we have been underwater a whopping 2 hours 10 minutes. My husband who had come along to snorkel at the cenote is looking a bit worried as we surface, he never expected us to be that long although we were careful to say that we may be several hours.

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Mexico Day 3

Day 3 Yax Muul and Dos Ojos

Fred asked whether I had been to Yax Muul, I replied that I thought I had but when we arrived at the site it was new to me – I would certainly have remembered the walk and the stairs had I done them before!

Yax Muul is a very small cenote – not much more room around the small, very steep wooden ladder required to access it. The mainline, which ends up eventually in NoHoch, runs straight through it from east to west.

We headed off upstream first. The passage is very shallow and for quite a length at the start has air space above the water – which means that when the depth is less than 1 metre your fins start to break the surface if you don’t adjust. The passage winds through very decorated caves with huge rim stones – the mineral deposits left at the edge of wet areas before the caves flooded. The line was marked here and there with Styrofoam cups – not that great an idea where they had broken free from their ties and taken the line to the roof of the cave.

The shallow nature of this cave meant that the dive was long – but given that we had to swim back against some flow we had adjusted gas plans accordingly and allowed only 30 bar for the dive. We returned to our reel, recalculated gas whilst still underwater and headed off again.

Downstream the cave was much dirtier, with deposits and branches. Fred lead us slowly through a couple of small sections of passage until we reached a room beyond which only side mount divers can access. It was time to go – and time to negotiate that ladder and path again.

After recovering from that ordeal over lunch - we headed off to Dos Ojos.

Dos Ojos means two eyes – as there are two cenotes here like two blue eyes in the jungle. We entered in the Eastern eye and headed, via the cavern line, to the western eye where we recalculated gas and headed off on our main dive. There was a stark warning from Fred – get back here with more than 85 bar or we have to get out in the western eye and walk. Hmmm….. don’t need much more incentive than that to watch my gas.

Dos Ojos is very pretty so it is very popular with snorkelers and cavern divers. We saw a few groups diving the cavern line and then left them behind as we entered the cave via one of the two main lines. I’m getting formationed out at this point – how much can one diver take in one trip? – I’m also getting tired and hand over the lead on the way out as I don’t feel that my head is quite where it should be. Luckily though I have ample gas to ensure that I don’t have to hike on the surface with my gear back to the car.

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Mexico Day 2

Day 2. Grand Cenote and Car Wash

Fred and I were joined by Steve from Seattle today – we would be diving as a three until Friday. We loaded up the truck and headed off to Grand Cenote.

I dived Grand Cenote’s cavern line last time I was here and it is a stunning white cavern which is highly decorated. As Fred and I had not dived with Steve before we took the opportunity to do full S drills and Valve drills before the first dive to get a measure of each other.

We did the cavern line first and then the main line. Avoiding the cavern line to get on to the mainline was the challenge here and Fred ran the reel for the team. Given that the cavern is highly decorated I expected the cave to be the same and was certainly not disappointed.

Car Wash

We left Grand Cenote and headed to Car Wash – one of my favourite caves in Mexico. The upstream line in Car Wash is 130 metres back from the entrance and tricky to find. Steve volunteered to run the reel and did well to find the line although the penalty of his hard work was that gas limits were reached soon after. Not the most satisfying dive and I made a note to ask to go back later in the week.

Al, Frase and I headed in on the downstream tunnel in Car Wash just the once last time and not for very far. This time Fred led us through quite a narrow passage and, running line all the time, down to a room at 27 metres, right at the end of the available line on the reel. This is known as the Room of the Ancients – so called as there are fire pits here where you can see the remains of fires which appear to have been laid by Mayans over 10,000 years ago before the caves flooded. It was quite something seeing wood which in places was charred round the edges, still intact and in place in hollowed out areas of rock surrounded by charcoal.

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Mexico 2006 Day 1

Day 1 Taj Mahal 

I arrive at Zero Gravity and met up with Fred Devos, who I had briefly met in Florida, and who would show me round this week. Fred is DIR Mexico’s newest GUE Fundamentals/Cave 1 Instructor but has been teaching with other cave agencies for a long time. He’s quiet and a very modest guy, who has a passion for the caves, for Mexico and for exploration which is, like everything about Fred, understated but clearly runs deep.

Fred

I was only diving in the morning on the first day so we headed to Taj Mahalwhich is a bare 100 yards from Zero Gravity along the main road – then off on to a typical jungle track. I dived Taj Mahal on my Cave 1 course but didn’t really remember it. There are two lines – one gold, one white and Fred led us off running the reel to the white line for our first dive.

It took me a few minutes to relax back into the slow steady pace required for the caves here and I was pleased that Fred ran the reel and led the dive. After 20 minutes we came to a restriction and started our return.

Second dive I led in. I knew I was looking for the gold line which would be to my left and was baffled to find the white line in the way as I was convinced that it was off to my right. Fred indicated that I was correct and I should continue - it turned out that another team had entered the cave and I had come across their reel rather than the second permanent line.

This dive is interesting as the passage which is never very deep goes very, very shallow to what is known as the DCS dome – at around 1 metre in depth. The passage then goes down again and the tunnel gets tighter – so the dive was called at this point. A relaxing and easy start to my trip.

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